The journey began officially at 2:50pm on a flight out of Richmond to Newark, getting on Singapore Airlines flight 21, at 11pm to make the journey over the North Pole and down to Asia. However, the real journey actually began in June of 1975, when my father (as a single parent) and I embarked on an adventure that would define much of who we are. I remember that day in 1975, leaving the USA and getting on a plane in Detroit to move to Singapore. There were many goodbyes and tears that day when I was nine years old, but as I learned through life, the goodbyes are transcended by relationships that have endured. I do not think I would have met who I have met, married the lovely wife I adore (and thus have the great kids I have), or have experienced what I have experienced had I not grown up in Singapore. So, this is a journey not only into my past and who I was as an adolescent, but is certainly part of who I am in the present as an adult. I consider it where I am from and it is ‘home' to me in so many ways. I have not been back to Singapore since 1984, and little did I know when I left then that it would be this long until I would return.

Dad and I met up at Newark; however, we almost did not make it on the plane together. His flight out of Dulles was delayed and landed at 10:10. I went up to the gate desk and let them know he is coming and tried my best to hold the plane. At 10:45pm, word came that he had checked-in and was on his way through security…whew! I took an earlier flight so was fine. We took off and the lights over Manhattan were bold and bright. As we continued over Montreal and into northern Canada, it became dark below. The sun rose over the winter desert of the Artic and northern Russia. It is hard to believe we would be landing in the tropics.

We passed the Sayan Mountain range and have just come over Russia into Mongolia and are moving over China. We passed 50 miles from the North Pole (Santa was home). Dad and I looked down and could see herds of animals (perhaps elk) on the open winter plains of northern Russia, which looked like a desert with snow. As we headed down over China and Thailand, we could see lights of Beijing and then Bangkok below. We had a tailwind, so the flight time was a mere 18 hours and 5 minutes. This is my new record as the previous longest flight I was on was from San Francisco to Hong Kong at 15 hours. Flying Singapore Airlines certainly makes a difference and I am reminded why they are the best…and do not wonder why airlines in the US struggle.

We did get some shuteye and woke up to morning sun over the North Pole, however, a few hours later it set as we crossed it and that was pretty much my April 5th, 2006. It was over in a mere 3-4 hours. The sun set on the same side of the aircraft as it rose, due to the fact we changed directions once we came over the ‘top of the world'. So we left on April 4 and arrive April 6….as if tomorrow was holding out her hand to us to get there. We arrived at 5:20am on April 6th. I thought I would probably recognize Changi Airport and some other sights, but knew the skyline has changed.

The main impetus for this trip is the Singapore American School's 50th anniversary. They invited all alums back with many events, including the opening of a time capsule that has mementos and notes/pictures from my era in the 1980s. There will also be ceremonies that include the former PM of Singapore, Lee Kwan Yew and the current US Ambassador to Singapore. It is also reassuring to know my history teacher is still there. I will see many classmates that I have not seen since I left and returned to the US. Dad and I look forward to being with people that meant a lot to us while living here, seeing the schools that I attended, going to our church, seeing the places we lived, and places we spent our time as father and son.

Needless to say, I am looking forward to being there and without saying, some ‘bagus makan, lah' (try to remember Malay as best as I can).

Thanks for reading and until next time.

Selamat Pagi,

Part II: Dive Knives and Coconuts (April 8, 2006)

Have you ever done something and thought 'What the heck am I doing?' After laying eyes on Singapore for the first time in 22 years, one thing that was apparent after an 18 hour plane ride and 12 hour time change is that jet lag is alive and well. My mind was foggy the first day. This morning I took out my toothbrush and shaving cream, luckily realizing what I had done before I put it on my toothbrush.

We rested when we got to our flat, however I could not resist pouring myself a Kickapoo (for those that do not know it is a soft drink) before Dad and I crashed for a few hours. When we woke up, Raffles Square was our first stop. We rode the MRT (Mass Transit); the amount of new construction and skyscrapers is quite astounding, however, on an island 26 by 13 miles growth can pretty much only be accommodated by going vertical. We visited the nearest stalls for a fresh lime, visited my Dad's former office building and did a lot of walking around before we came back and picked up our rental car.

Now, I have not driven on the left side of the road, since, hmmm, last time I was here. I had to adjust quickly; so far so good. The roads are very well marked, very clean, and from what I have seen, much improved from what they were and even exceeded the roads in the US.

The next morning, it was across the border to Malaysia and Palau Rawa. This is a special place; it is where I got my start with diving and Dad and I did A LOT of it not only at Rawa, but at many of the surrounding islands (Tioman, Aur, Gual). The roads in Malaysia are not the best; however they are better than they were. Still, driving on jungle roads in Malaysia is akin to playing Frogger, the Jungle version. You have to time your passes just right and always look behind you and ahead of you on the other side of the road.

I will never forget our first drive up there in 1976 where Dad was visibly shaking after it and he had to have a beer once we got to Mersing (the town on the east coast where you catch the ferry to Rawa) in order to relax. We experienced many close calls on that road, such as lumber trucks passing on the other side, and thus in our lane, around blind curves; backhoes swinging out in front of us from excavators on the back of trucks. Needless to say, my hands were tightly on the wheel. Though I spent much of the drive back and forth playing Frogger, it was not bad at all.

Once on the ferry to Rawa, I recognized it right away in the distance. Getting closer and closer, I could see how much it had changed from a sleepy informal hut and shack kind of place to a full-scale resort. A good night sleep at what I call the 'Old Rawa' meant not having a mosquito net that had any holes while trying to stay cool on humid 80 degree nights on the equivalent of an army cot (There was a place we stayed on Palau Aur once with our Singapore dive club that was a tad nicer than a prison).

Now you don't need them because all the cottages have air conditioning in addition to their own plumbing (tourists sure are fussy, eh). The GM of Rawa (his name is Johfari, and goes by Joe) was a waiter when we came all the time and he remembered us and treated us as if we came 'home'. He has worked at Rawa for 34 years now. He says he did not recognize me at first (recognized Dad right away as he was here in 2000), but hey, he hadn't seen me since I was 17.

Dad and I had many memorable conversations at Rawa, and this trip was no exception. We used to snorkel over to other parts of the island with our dive knives and come to a beach, crack open some coconuts with our knives, and talk about deep issues in life. The symbolism, now that I think about it of getting to the heart of matters and having meaningful times is akin to getting to the heart of the coconut with our dive knives...it takes awhile to get through the tough husk, but once you do and get to the shell with the milk and fruit inside, it is more than worth it. We visited the beach today where we had those times and took pictures. I will also never forget the time my grandad was with us and a famous picture we have of him is he waving to us from the porch of our hut; it was embedded in our minds as we visited where that spot is.

I was able to get some snorkeling in, however, found myself to be quite depressed as much of the marine life is dead. Evidently they did some dynamite fishing (I don't understand why, seems to take the challenge out of actually catching a fish...kind of like hunting in a corral) and the increased capacity of people on the island means more wear and tear. We took a walk up to the top of the island and saw a couple of monitor lizards on the way up and down. Leaving today was tough as Joe asked us when we would be back again...it's just as it was when we lived in Singapore, Rawa would make us say "Satu Lagi" (one more) over and over again. As we pulled away in the boat today and watched it fade in the distance, I looked over at that spot and had this image of my grandad waving from that porch, less of a goodbye wave, and more of a 'see you later' wave.

The drive back included a stop at a Japanese 'pill box.' These were built and used by the Japanese during WWII when they occupied Malaya. They are big cement huts with lookouts and sniper holes along major roads. I poked my head in to see if anyone had not heard the war was over and had not surrendered yet. There were some monkeys eating oranges on the one right across the highway from us and we got as close as we could to them and took some pictures. Nothing like a drive back home and seeing wild monkeys on the road.

A trip to Newton Circus for some great food (had muturbak and mango juice) capped off the day. Tomorrow we are going to the church we went to all those years here, along with visiting some other old stomping grounds, such as our homes.

Selamat Jalan and Terima Kaseh,

Part III: Palm Sunday at our Singapore Church home, a visit to the old homesteads, "Hey there, Eddie", and a little Nashville in Singapore (April 9, 2006)

Trying to find our way around Singapore is proving to be a challenge, as most of the landmarks that were there years ago are now gone, or they are something else now. One of the buildings that has remained the same is our Singapore church home, Orchard Road Presbyterian Church (ORPC). My heart beat faster during the service as I took in where I was and what a special feeling it was to be there on Palm Sunday. After the service, familiar faces came up and welcomed us back, and people came up to me, squinting, saying "Eddie??" They would put their hand at my waist and say something along the lines of 'you used to be this tall!' It was great to be back there, feel welcomed, and worship on Palm Sunday.

Next was a visit to one of the place we used to live, our flat at Nassim Mansion. We went up to our 5th floor unit, walked the grounds, and were relieved that everything was pretty much the same as we remember it. I spent a lot of the time walking the grounds replaying clips of my youth in my mind…touch football on the field and having fun with friends and former neighbors...also stuff my brother Will and I would do that aren't fit for an email.

Our first SAS event was Sunday evening, and walking up to it I wondered how many folks we would recognize and vice-versa. Well, it was quickly answered as we heard, "Hey there Eddie" as Dad and I approached the hotel from a friend I have known since I was nine, Steve Studebaker. I was also able to catch up with a couple of my former Spanish and history teachers and I am glad they are STILL teaching...makes me feel younger already.

The next morning, Dad and I had our usual question of 'how many times did you wake up last night?' except this time we slept all the way through. I think we were officially fully adjusted! We headed to the other school that I went while we lived here, United World College, a British school. Again, we were treated as if it were a homecoming. We met the headmaster and were taken on a tour of the school. I was able to see many the classrooms and buildings where I both succeeded and failed, and the exam hall where I took my 'O' Levels. There was a child playing out at recess. She came over to me. I told her I used to go to school there...she looked at me and dropped her jaw to the ground; guess she thought it was not possible that I was a former child myself.

We then headed to our first home in Singapore and again it looked great. The home looks like it has had some improvements and much has been built around it, but all in all, it was darn good to see it. That is the house where I blew out my first record player by forcing the 110V plug into an 220V socket...I think the smoke smell still simmers in my old room. Also woke up one morning with a gecko right next to me on the pillow looking at me.

It is really hard to put into words what goes on inside my head as I am seeing my youth right before my eyes. I know many flashbacks have occurred and much of our way getting around Singapore has been done with or without a map, and I find that I have the feeling "I know it is there" when not using a map and doing it by memory. The same can be said for what I am experiencing during this trip..."I know it is there" but I just can't put the words around it.

Dad and I headed downtown briefly and snapped some pictures by the famous Singapore landmark, the Merlion.

This evening, we went to another SAS dinner, and I was able to catch up more with former schoolmates. The band for the event was a famous one in Singapore; if you closed your eyes, you would think you were in Nashville. When you open your eyes and see that the band was Chinese and you just heard Alan Jackson or Wayland Jennings, you do a double take and wonder 'how the heck can that voice come out of that mouth?' The band was "Matthew and the Mandarins" and one of their more famous songs is "Singapore Cowboy".

Terimah kaseh for reading,

Part IV: When we were Eagles (April 12, 2006)

When it comes to discussing high schools, even among friends and relatives that went to school in the US, I have come to realize how humbling and special it is to be an SAS graduate. Singapore is not only a fine place to live; the school is a close community of relationships and bonds that endure. I try my best to make the class reunions for my class that we have every five years, no matter where they are, because of the bond we have as classmates growing up in Singapore and the close community that we were, and still are. This past week, I saw people I have not seen in years. We picked up where we left off, as if it was yesterday. SAS is now the largest international school in the world with facilities that I have now seen (with jaw open) that stand apart. It has relocated to the northwest part of the island and been there about five years. When the school opened its doors in 1956 at Rochalie Drive, it was in a seven bedroom colonial house and had seven nationalities attending, now there are 52 at a facility that makes the former location where I attended look like a kampung (which is more or less a house made out of ply wood only and a tin roof). Most graduates get in to fine universities in the US and other parts of the world.

Upon visiting the campus yesterday, I had visions of my experience at our former school grounds at King's Road, which was built in 1962. After seeing all the classrooms with first rate AV equipment, a classmate and I were discussing the era of filmstrips with that DING sound to prompt the teacher to move forward one strip. I generally don't like to get on the subject that goes along the lines of 'Well, in my day we did not have all this fancy stuff, we just stared at the sun for entertainment' as it shows my age, and well, yeah, my envy!

The commemoration ceremony was held at SAS to celebrate the school's 50th Anniversary. It was an event with tight security. As we approached the metal detectors to enter the auditorium, I could look up on the balconies and see the guys who were in charge of making sure there would be no trouble. The main speaker was former PM of Singapore, Lee Kwan Yew, who is one of the most respected leaders in Asia along with being just as good of a straight-shooter as one will find. He is the main reason Singapore is where it is today. He spoke passionately about how SAS helped his family as his grandson is dyslexic and the Singapore schools are not set up to deal with it effectively. They got his grandson into SAS, where he thrived and received the attention he needed. He also admired how SAS was started by four US businessmen who did it on their own and how Americans in general have that entrepreneurial spirit. He wants to impress same trait on more Singaporeans. He cracked that if Singaporeans needed to set up a school they would ask the government to do it.

The US Ambassador to Singapore also spoke, along with my history teacher. He is now the official school historian as he graduated from SAS in 1966, and, except for going to college, has been at SAS ever since.

Part V: The Curry Dinner 22 years in the making (April 12, 2006)

There was a knock at our door Monday morning before Dad and I took off for the day. It was an Indian gentleman whose face I could see in my mind but not put the name in my mouth. He asked "Do you remember me?" I said "You are soooo familiar." He replied "I am Leela's husband, Ravi, and we have been looking for you since you landed on Thursday." Leela was our 'amah' while living in Singapore, but she was so much more than that.

My Dad had a job that required him to travel just about every week. I was the only child in the house. He could not leave me to my own vices at the age of nine, or into my teenage years for that matter. He hired Leela and her husband Raj to help around the house and to look after me. Leela and Raj adopted a son, Mohan, soon after (1976) and we had many good times together. We ate dinner together around the table like family and talked about life and had many laughs.

We also had two dogs that watched the house, one of them Leela and Raj's, a German Sheppard named Lady. Now, once Lady liked you, you were fine, but if she didn't, then you better stay away. Nothing like a mean dog that doesn't like strangers guarding the house...unless, that is, you have an office in your house. Dad worked out of the home when he wasn't traveling and Lady followed her instincts. She could not tell if someone was coming to Dad's office for business and thus, friendly. Needless to say, she bit some of Dad's business associates as they came to see him...even the postman. It is hard to undo natural instincts so he got an office downtown and left the business deterrent device at home.

I would normally go back to the States over school summers to visit my mom and brother, and my grandparents. There was one summer, 1977 I believe, where things were going to be changed forever and I will never forget it. Dad and I were in Florida with my grandparents when the phone rang. It was Leela. It was not normal for her to make an international call. I am sure her voice was heavy and strained. She informed Dad that Raj had been murdered. As many of you know, this does not happen in Singapore very often. Our hearts sank for both her and Mohan, and we knew things were not going to be the same upon our return home.

Leela stayed with us for a while and we supported her as she went through this loss of Raj and moving on with her life with a son who was barely a toddler. She was a widow at 28 (my best estimation). She and Mohan were like family to us and Dad let her know that whatever she needed, just name it, even if she needed to take some time away. I think we grew closer during those years as Leela moved on with her life. Eventually she did remarry, to a great guy named Ravi, who came to our door.

Leela is also a great cook and makes the best curry dinners in the world, in my opinion. The one we had at her home with Ravi, her, and Mohan was 22 years in the making as it had been that long since we have seen each other. The conversations were one of a kind and non-stop. When she laid eyes on me and Dad for the first time in all these years, I am sure many of those memories of our great times together with her, Raj, and Mohan as a baby; then her getting back on her feet afterwards, were racing through her head. She probably looked at me and saw the same nine year old boy in the grown up body...and you know what, that is just fine with me. This dinner was 22 years in the making and required no planning at all, being together was really the only ingredient needed.

Selamat Malam,

Part VI: At the corner of Bras Basah and Beach Road (April 13, 2006)

If you happen to meet at the corner of these two roads in Singapore, you should know immediately by looking at the building that is there where you are. This is where the famous Raffles Hotel sits. It is looking as good as ever. Dad and I walked around the historic grounds with gardens and classic colonial architecture. It is a first class place, and one can't help sitting on the veranda and wanting the columns to talk about the times past and the people that have walked the halls and stayed there.

After being denied entry into the lobby due to the fact we were wearing shorts, I was able to get a picture with the formidable presence of the Raffles doorman. Then, as one would guess, what would a visit to the Raffles be without sitting at the courtyard bar and ordering that famous drink at the place it was invented, namely a Singapore Sling. For those who play trivial pursuit on a regular basis (and I do not), the drink was invented in 1915 by a Chinese bartender at Raffles that, I surmise, was messing around with various ingredients. We paid for the privilege of having one where it all started as well, as they are 17 Singapore dollars each ($10 US).

For the afternoon it was a time of respite from our time-compressed schedule at one of my father's favorite places on earth (so much so, that he has kept the membership since we left Asia in 1984), the Tanglin Club. It was a most welcome afternoon to take it easy for a few hours.

Part VII: SAS at 50, the celebration on the fields of Woodlands (April 13, 2006)

Dad had an issue to deal with: he had run out of passport ‘chop' space that is used by immigration to place their stamps when he embarks and disembarks on his yearly travels around the world. So, we had a mission today before heading over to SAS. We had to get over to the US Embassy and get some more pages in his passport so it would not be an issue.

Since 9/11, everything with “American” in the name is guarded to the hilt, and the US Embassy, even in a friendly and secure country such as Singapore, is no exception. SAS and The American Club also have elite armed guards at the entrances. I dropped him off at the entrance expecting the worst and hoping for the best.

As I cruised around, I went down a street that was a former hangout of mine as our flat was right in front of it, Nassim Road. I looked for the Burns family house, where I hung out with the 12 kids they had, (heck, what's 13 when you have 12!). We played basketball on the street courts, and since the Russian Embassy was on the street, would walk by often on the side of the street where the fence line was so I could take a closer look at them during those Cold War years and wonder what the big fuss was about.

As I came back by the US Embassy, Dad was there waiting. He had gotten it done in 10 minutes. Mission accomplished and off to the Botanical Gardens. We walked around a short while as this was where Dad often jogged in the mornings. I was also able to get to the bandstand (gazebo) where our class had our senior picture taken. It will be interesting to compare it to the one I have on a wall at home.

After lunch and returning the rental car it was off to SAS for the closing ceremonies and 50th birthday celebration BBQ. For this encounter, one last time to spend with great friends, to kindle the fires of friendships that seemed distant but somehow are strong and always there when you don't realize it, and to be Eagles in Singapore. After spending some time with the SAS Superintendent, I thought that SAS was in good hands. As we spoke I realized that he was taking good care of this place that means so much to so many…I think he realizes the privilege he has of leading and being a good steward of the one of a kind place that it is.

I was able to connect with a long lost pal, Paul Taiganides (Tag), and if you can imagine (or not) two guys hugging each other after 25 years (he was class of '81) of not seeing each other, then go right ahead. Tag was over at our flat quite a bit, as he was best friends with my next door neighbor, Dave Linton (class of '81). I got to know him as we logged time at my neighbor's flat or ours. Being two years his junior, he teased me like a younger brother, but I didn't mind, I would give it right back to him. Wish we were able to have more time together than this reunion, but we are back in touch, and who knows, we both rather it not be another 25 years.

As alums, we were part of a parade that walked into the stadium as they went over what was going on in our era in the world and at SAS during the 1980s. Six of us were interviewed together by current students so they can have this event in the archives for years to come. As much as I did not want this to end, we had to say our goodbyes and had some final gut-busting laughs. Goodbyes were of the ‘see you later' variety, as we know that we want that to happen.

As a final night out, Leela's son, Mohan, and I went out late to East Coast Park for conversation over satay and Tiger beer. It is amazing in Singapore how late people eat. We were there at 11pm and folks were having dinner. Mohan and I had not seen each other since he was a young lad, and now that we have reconnected, want to keep it that way.

Selamat Jalan,

Part VIII: The Final Day and Epilogue (April 14, 2006)

Waking up today, with a flight at 11am, knowing that I do not know when I am coming back is similar to what I felt in 1984. I am elated to be going home to my family (as opposed to going back to school in 1984) and realize that these were ten special days that can never be replicated. I am looking forward to the my wife Kitty's arms flinging around my shoulders as she stands on the second or third step of the stairs so we can stare in each other's eyes, and being tackled by my kids as soon as they see me. Kitty gave me a wonderful gift of time to take this journey with my father to much of my roots and where I grew up, and I am forever grateful.

Ravi picked us up at 8:30am sharp (as he is a cab driver after all) and the final ride down East Coast Parkway to Changi Airport began. It is amazing to me how clean Singapore compared to the US after not seeing it for so long and. It is as if dust is considered litter. The roads are lined with orchids and palm trees for landscaping, and the flyovers are also covered with orchids. Upon entering Changi Airport, I was again reminded how it is the best airport in the world as it reflects Singapore for its efficiency, courtesy, and scenery.

As we headed to the security checkpoint and it was time to go through, we hugged Leela. As I have shared in these journals, she played a huge part in raising me, even in her rough times, and as we hugged it seemed both of us really did not want to let go. She stayed at the door and watched us as we walked through immigration and on, and I looked back one last time, saw her still standing there and gave her a ‘see you later' wave. That is what I would like it to be.

As I put this journey in perspective, there are a couple of things that stand out. Each day I was there, I focused on where I was and what was going on around me….I did not want to let it go. I knew that I had to at some point; however, if I could repeat the events several times, I would and would enjoy it just as much as the first. The journey was priceless as well as the relationships that were involved with it; each one unique but a part of me nonetheless.

Growing up as a minority in a foreign country that became home gave me experiences, relationships, and perspectives that I would never have gained had I stayed where I was born (Toledo, Ohio…and nothing against Toledo either, jokes aside). Growing up overseas gave me confidence and encouraged me to explore, take risks, and care. For example, I fell in love with diving in Singapore and have done it ever since…and when as I think about it more, the anxieties and fears I needed to overcome when I initially moved there started to dissipate as I experienced more and more. Likewise as I dove more and more, I overcame my initial fear and anxiety and took more risks that built confidence….things that come to mind are staying calm when getting in the water with all my gear on properly and seeing nothing but a blue abyss below; going into wrecks and knowing what to do and think quickly and critically in a short amount of time in case the air hose or my gear gets snagged; or seeing a nurse shark entrapped in a fish net with no way to escape, trying to cut it out with a dive knife, subsequently running too low on air to continue and then going to the surface to change my tank and back down to get the creature out (happened at one of the islands near Rawa).

I came to appreciate these past days what the place and the friends that are part of mean to me. Each moment I did not want to let go off, I wanted it to last for longer than it did and left wanting to repeat it over and over. It's true, I can come to my Asian home and catch up with friends who are like family as if it were yesterday. Now, I have been blessed with a wonderful family and life in Mechanicsville, Virginia, that would not exist today had I not grown up in Singapore. All those goodbyes and tears in June 1975 at the airport in Detroit have transformed into what I have shared with you over these last several days.

As we landed in Singapore last week, I could not take my eyes off the landscape as we approached the island. As we left today, I looked out the window after takeoff and kept looking until I could see it no more. Analogous to each event and moment that I was a part of these past days from takeoff over Manhattan to the final hug with Leela at Changi Airport, I did not want to leave this island nation that is part of who I am, but as reality set in, I had to. However, as I was reminded of on this journey, my heart never left at all, and actually has been there since 1975.

Terimah Kaseh Singapura!

Thanks to all for allowing me to share this journey with you,

Ed